It’s a funny old time for restaurants at the moment. They managed to stay open when Manchester were plunged into a tier 3 lockdown, but unfortunately the restrictions mean less people than ever are dining out. Our hospitality industry needs you now more than ever, if you can afford to, to go and eat with them. Somewhere I had been before but not for quite some time is Vermilion.
Vermilion is just outside of the city and is a huge restaurant space spread over three floors. Providing Asian fusion cuisine, the restaurant is perfectly Covid friendly with the staff wearing masks, hand sanitiser at entrance and exits, as well as all tables being suitably socially distanced. It feels really comfortable and anywhere that has a new menu in the current climate is a must visit for me.
Masterchef constestant Bobby Geetha has created the new menu fresh from working in Dubai. He wants to take Vermilion in a new direction in Manchester and incorporate local produce into the Indian inspired menu.
As soon as the pre starter nibbles arrived, I knew we were in for something special. None of those greasy poppadums with sweet, sticky mango chutney. Here you get crackers made with tapioca and rice. The dips include coriander and mint, sweetly pickled onions and a gorgeous cherry with ginger chutney. The cherry chutney was incredible; sour with a kick of heat from the ginger. Totally moreish and something that I will definitely order next time and try to recreate at home.
First up was an appetiser; crunchy lotus, kale, pink lady and pomegranate chaat. A dish popular in the streets of Delhi and Mumbai, the kale has been lightly fried in a tempura batter then dressed in a mint, tamarind and sweet yoghurt sauce. The juicy pop of pomegranate pairs well with the rich chickpeas for a dish that gets the mouth watering.
Vermilion have an impressive selection of small plates on the new menu and the Black bomb, edamame charcoal samosas are a good place to start. Break open the glittery black parcels to discover a combination of Lancashire black bomb cheese and sweetcorn.
The crispy butter chicken tikka kofta are butter chicken and cheddar wrapped in a crispy panko crumb. Each one is balanced atop a tamarind and mustard mayonnaise. They are similar to a Spanish croquetta but with the flavours of a tikka masala on the inside. Creamy with a light heat, just lovely.
Next was hand dived scallop and Merguez sausage tomato masala with turmeric cauliflower puree. The scallops are cooked beautifully and work so well with the harissa infused lamb sausage. The smooth and creamy cauliflower puree was crying out to be mopped up with it all. I paired the dish with a Chilean sauvignon blanc which worked perfectly and the spice brought out the floral in the wine well.
The Cornish shrimp and duck egg Akuri bao were also a delight. The Mumbai Parsi classic egg dish has been cooked with Cornish brown shrimp, topped with chilli walnuts for crunch and served in a feather soft bao. They are a really generous size too and, as you can imagine, I was getting pretty full by this point.
The last of the small plates were slow cooked lamb rib-lets with a mint raita. The lamb is slow cooked and smoked for added richness, braised for 4 hours and finished with edamame and radish for a fresh crunch. They’re a lovely twist on classic ribs yet with a distinct Asian flavour.
Onto the large plates and my favourite was the Cheshire kid goat curry and leek hot pot. This take on the classic Lancashire hot pot includes minced goat and chickpeas, topped with crispy potatoes. The flatbreads are ideal for mopping up the rich juices and adds just enough of an Indian vibe to the dish. They are beautiful and the whole thing just works. Who would have thought it?
Somewhat more authentic was the pulled duck biryani with duck egg. The confit duck is braised and pulled, then cooked in a light coconut sauce before serving on top of a bed of fluffy basmati rice. It is a very fragrant dish that is bursting with rich flavours from the duck. Not pictured was the colourful beetroot raita that tones down that richness and adds a lovely earthy note to the dish. Despite feeling incredibly full, I couldn’t help but dunk the flatbreads from the earlier hot pot dish in that delicious beetroot dip. It is simply stunning.
Last of the big plates was the Kerala Mediterranean sea bass curry with coconut and cherry tomato. The firm and meaty fish stands up well to the Thai style creamy tomato sauce.
I almost dismissed dessert because let’s face it, Indian dining is not well known for spectacular desserts but this changed my mind. Masala chai kulfi, Mancunian bee honey crumble and Falooda. The ice lolly is milk based with loose leaf tea, ginger and cardamom. The dressing with rose syrup and raspberries is tart and floral, cutting through the creaminess of the lollipop. Yes, I picked it up and dunked it in the sauce. What else was a girl to do? The nod to Manchester with the charcoal honeycomb is lovely and just finishes it off with a crunch of sweetness.
In summary, we had a delightful evening. The menu can be accompanied by paired wines and the staff are happy to give you recommendations if it is something you are into. I was impressed with the Manc twists on classic Indian dishes and I can’t wait to go back. Yes, it is a little bit of a jaunt from the city centre but boy, is it worth it. Hop a cab and be transported to the streets of Mumbai, via Manchester. I promise, you won’t be disappointed.
Vermilion, Hulme Hall Lane, Lord North Street, Sport City, Manchester, M40 8AD
I was invited to dine as a guest of Vermilion and was not asked to pay for my meal.
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